Welcome to my article on the exhilrating Pacu Jawi in Batusangkar. This adventure to photograph the iconic Pacu Jawi (bull race) was one of the most spontaneous trips I’ve ever embarked on. Held in Bukittinggi, within Tanah Datar—a regency in West Sumatra—this event is deeply rooted in local tradition and is not tailored for tourists. The Pacu Jawi has its origins as a post-harvest celebration, a festive spectacle for villagers that dates back centuries, even before Indonesia’s independence. Originally held just twice a year, the increased frequency of rice harvests now allows for more frequent and thrilling races, offering a glimpse into a vibrant cultural heritage
The Pacu Jawi is a dream come true for many photographers, offering an immersive experience that will have shutterbugs completely immersed in their craft. As they navigate the muddy, waterlogged rice fields, they’ll be on a quest to capture the perfect shot, connecting deeply with their gear while chasing the ideal angles amid the action.
Trip itineraries
Our 3 day 2 night itinerary began with a 1-hour AirAsia* flight from Changi Airport to Kuala Lumpur International Airport (KLIA), followed by a 1-hour and 10-minute flight to Padang after a 2.5-hour layover. Upon arrival, we were warmly greeted by our driver(Ari +62 813-6500-0298) and embarked on a 2.5-hour drive to Bukittinggi. Along the way, we took an hour-long break that included lunch and a quick grocery stop before reaching Hotel Santika, where we spent our first night. On Day 2, we woke early at 6:30 AM for an 1-hour photoshoot at an attraction just 10 minutes drive from the hotel. We return to the hotel for breakfast and check out before setting off on a 1.5-hour drive to the race site in Batusangkar. The event kicked off around late morning, with the bull races commencing shortly after noon. We departed the event after 4 PM and made our way to Padang, a 2.45-hour drive, where we stayed at the ZHM Premiere Padang for the night. The next morning, we checked out early at 6:00 AM to catch our 8:00 AM flight back to KLIA before returning Singapore about 1pm. *Scoot has started 4-weekly direct flights to Padang from 20th December 2024
Brief Insights on Pacu Jawi
Pacu Jawi is a captivating and traditional bull racing event held in West Sumatra, Indonesia, particularly in the Tanah Datar region. This thrilling spectacle features two jockeys, each controlling a pair of bulls, as they race through the muddy rice fields. Typically barefoot, the jockeys hold onto a wooden plow tethered to the bulls, navigating the slippery terrain. While the race showcases both speed and the bulls’ strength, it is also a test of the jockeys’ skill in maintaining control. Despite the name “bull race,” the bulls do not compete, and no formal winner is declared. Instead, judges evaluate the bulls based on their performance, mainly their speed and ability to run in a straight line. Farmers highly value exceptional bulls and have the opportunity to purchase top-performing bulls at a higher price.The event, deeply rooted in Minangkabau culture, blends the thrill of competition with a celebration of local heritage and agricultural tradition.
Action at Pacu Jawi
The crew preping the bulls, typically male and aged between 2 to 13 years, race in pairs. Each pair is tethered by a rope to a wooden plough, with the jockey balancing on top. The race takes place on a prepared empty rice field cleared after harvest, creating a slippery environment for both the bulls and their jockeys.Then the race commenced around 1pm. At the early stage of the race, the water in field is still relatively clean, getting muddier as the race progresses.From the 1st race onwards, it gets muddier as each race fires off. The race just kept coming, at 3-5 minutes intervals. There are almost a hundred races and the event ends around after 5pm.
Occasionally the jockey bites the bull’s tail to speed up his animals, especially when one is running slower than the other.Here comes the bite. Maybe the jockey missed Soup Buntut (oxtail soup) ?One of my panning pictures, but somehow panning pictures do not quite convey the energy of the event.Observe the pure raw emotion.One of my fave pictures of the event. I prefer jockey not wearing colourful jacket for the traditional vibe.Very often, each bull has its own direction. The jockey suffers. The amount of mud thrown up are just stunning, bringing new meaning to the term “churn”.The jockey feeling abandoned by his pair of bulls. A jockey washing off the mud with the cooling piped water at the field edge.The event’s master of ceremonies, and race commentator. If I only I understood Bahasa.We got up-close with a quartet of village kids and spotted them sitting on the edge of the padi field smoking! They were really friendly, curious about us and even offered their cigarette to us.
Activities at the event ground
I shot this angle of the event ground with the coconut palms for the rustic kampong feel. It was scorching hot (felt like 35-38°C) and not much wind. Surprisingly, it does not feel humid nor was there mosquitoes.A peanut vendor at the event ground. I didn’t buy it as the weather was too hot for snacking.A mobile hot food seller arrives to set up business. In Indonesian, gerobak means wheeled food cart. It is one of the common method of selling street food by mobile vendors.A bakso bakar vendor. Bakso bakar is traditional Indonesian meatballs. The meatballs are made with a combination of beef, starch, eggs, soy sauce, and diluted margarine. They often flavour the meat mixture with garlic, nutmeg, salt, and pepper. After shaping the meatballs, it’s briefly boiled or steamed, skewered and then grilled over charcoal until fully cooked.Our group, while thirsty, refrained from buying any of the cold drinks from the event ground vendors as we have no idea what is their source of water.A group of Talempong musicians under a shelter, making their music reverberate throughout the race venue. A talempong is a small kettle gong which gives its name to an ensemble of four or five talempong as well as other gongs and drums.A couple of guys soaking up the festive mood.The race bulls arriving at the site from all over the village. Some arrived on foot, some via lorries.A jockey securing his bull at the race holding area.
A must-eat when in Bukitinggi
Enroute to our hotel, I had specifically requested our driver that we must check out the Bika Talago , a coconut cake cooked using wood fire. (Pic by Dr. Ace Yip)Certainly a natural way to cook coconut cake, just using wood fires. The taste is not too sweet, nice munchy texture with coconut flesh within the cake. Locals called it “kueh neraka” which literally means Hell cake. Its the way the cake is being baked with fire on top and bottom of it. The firewood used for baking is that of cinnamon tree that gives the cake a nice flavour. The snack is available only in this town and this is one of the two Bika Talago shops in Bukittinggi.
Preferred Accommodation
Bukitinggi – Hotel Santika Bukitinggi
Located on Jl. Tuanku Nan Renceh, on the main road connecting Bukittinggi with Padang, Hotel Santika Bukitinggiis our choice of accomodation, for a good night sleep.
Padang – ZHM Premiere Padang
The ZHM Premiere Padang is one of the highest-rated hotels in Padang. You will love the comfortable and well-appointed room.
Conclusion
As we conclude our Pacu Jawi in Batusangkar, it’s little wonder why photographers loved this event. From the mouthwatering Padang cuisine to the warm-hearted locals, the bull race offers a vibrant blend of culture, tradition, and adventure. Whether you’re a seasoned pro or a budding photographer, the bull race guarantees an unforgettable experience. So, until your next adventure, stay safe and let your lens capture the beauty of the journey. Do check out my other travel adventures here. Jensen Chua Photography holds all the rights to the pictures used in the article. The opinion expressed is factual, objective, and that of the author.
