Welcome to my “Ha Giang Loop by Private Car Tour” travelogue. If Ha Giang is on your travel bucket list, then this article is a must-read. Known for its stunning landscapes and rich cultural heritage, trips to Ha Giang are often referred to as “The Ha Giang Loop.” This iconic journey takes you through breathtaking landmarks, charming villages, and vibrant towns, following a scenic route that forms a loop, as depicted in the travel map below. Whether you’re seeking adventure or a deep dive into local culture, the Ha Giang Loop offers an unforgettable experience.
Ha Giang is renowned for its mountainous landscapes, winding S-shaped roads, and remote villages, which attract intrepid travellers. Since I’m not into motorbiking (the usual transport mode in this region), I’ve centred my trip around a private car tour, with a local driver who also serves as the travel guide.
Ha Giang travel tips
Hanoi is the gateway to Ha Giang. I flew in the afternoon, explored my favourite food spots in the Old Quarters, and then headed to the bus office for the 8 pm departure. The air-conditioned sleeper bus arrives in Ha Giang at 3 am and makes a toilet stop during the 7-hour ride. You can sleep until 6 am, then continue your journey. I booked a boutique hotel for a few hours of rest before our driver picked us up at 8 am. The hotel costs around S$30, includes breakfast, and has an ensuite restroom. For travel arrangements, contact Daisy at Govn Travel via WhatsApp (+84 97 115 74 97). Their prices are reasonable, and the services are reliable.
The best time to visit Ha Giang
Ha Giang has a tropical monsoon climate with year-round rain and high humidity. The weather varies across regions: cool and cold in the highlands, hot in the lower areas. From October to March, temperatures in lower valleys reach 20°C on sunny days, while mountain temperatures can drop below 10°C. From March to May, temperatures rise above 20°C. From May to September, temperatures in the lower valleys soar to the 30s°C with heavy rain and humidity. The Dong Van plateau often experiences thick fog. October to April is the best time for the Ha Giang loop, with sunny, dry weather, though each season has its charm.Tourists typically explore Ha Giang on packaged tours with rented motorbikes. They need at least 3 days to ride the main loop but could easily spend a week or two exploring the side routes. An ideal duration is about 4-7 days, covering around 350 kilometres of terrain, with some sections still under construction or repair.The routes along the highland typically do not have safety barriers, so observing safety lies in the hands of travellers commuting on the windy mountainous roads. Our ride for the Ha Giang trip was a Toyota Fortuner, which has a robust engine, and features designed for comfort. Drivers often favour it for its ability to tame rough and challenging terrain.
Memories on the Ha Giang Loop
The Loop offers breathtaking views of towering limestone mountains, deep valleys, terraced rice fields, and ethnic minority villages. The scenery is especially stunning when the rice fields turn golden during harvest season. You will also enjoy breathing in the fresh mountain air. It is like a detox for our body.
Women weavers at Lung Tam Handmade Linen
Most itineraries begin with the Lung Tam Handmade Linen Fabric & Textile Cooperative, established in 2001. It preserves the region’s linen weaving heritage using natural materials and hand techniques, boosting local income and becoming a must-visit stop on the Ha Giang Loop.Visitors can watch Hmong women artisans hand-weaving linen products. They use the linen to make clothes, blankets, tablecloths, bags, wallets, and many other items. Hmong artisans continue to weave fabric using traditional hand looms.Linen surrounded us as we strolled around Lùng Tám – drying in the sun, whirring on family looms, and worn by most men, women, and children. The durable fabric keeps the villagers warm during the harsh Ha Giang winters and keeps them fed the year through.The linen has a significant role in Hmong culture and spirituality. Weaving linen showcases the talent, creativity, and diligence of Hmong women..The Hmong women also excel in beeswax drawing and indigo dyeing techniques. Using heated beeswax, the artisans draw traditional Hmong patterns on white cloth.The 41-step process takes immense time and effort to complete various stages, including flax cultivation, fibre preparation, weaving, artwork, washing, and drying.A young tribal girl taking on the ropes of learning to weave linen, a vital life skill. The weaving factory also has a shop where you can buy some of the items produced by the co-op, including bags, shirts and tablecloths, with beautiful designs and colours. The hand-made items are of superb quality which explains the Lùng Tám’s co-op’s success over the years. You will love this village, vibrant communal way of life, different from what you will observe elsewhere along the Loop.
The Northernmost point at Lung Cu Flag Tower
The Lung Cu Flag Tower, located at Vietnam’s northernmost point, is a key landmark in Ha Giang. Standing 108 feet tall with a large Vietnamese flag, it sits atop Lung Cu Mountain (1700m). To reach the peak, climb 389 stone steps from the car park, followed by 140 spiral stairs inside the tower. This venue is not suitable for those with mobility challenges.
Charming Lung Cham Cultural Tourist Village
Lung Cam Cultural Tourism Village is a charming destination in Lung Cam commune, Bac Son district. Though touristy, this village offers a glimpse into the cultural heritage and traditional way of life of the Tay ethnic minority group.Lung Cam Cultural Tourism Village focuses on sustainable tourism and community development, preserving its heritage and environment while improving residents’ livelihoods. However, modernisation is evident among the village children, as seen in the picture.From young, the village children are taught traditional customs, dances, and crafts, passing down centuries-old traditions to future generations. Local schools incorporate Tay language, history, and traditions into the curriculum, fostering a sense of pride and identity among the younger generation.The village actively promotes cultural exchange programs, welcoming visitors from different backgrounds to learn about Tay traditions and customs. This fosters cross-cultural understanding and appreciation while creating economic opportunities for the local community.
Primitive Hmong Village at Lao Xa
Our driver drove us to an off-the-beaten-path Lao Xa Village, which stands out in its preservation of traditional Hmong culture and lifestyle, often referred to as “primitive” due to its adherence to age-old customs and practices. The village is characterised by its rustic charm, with traditional stilt houses made from bamboo and thatch, surrounded by terraced fields and lush greenery.The Hmong people in this village have been cultivating cabbage for generations, making it a vital part of their agricultural heritage. The village’s terrain, characterised by terraced fields carved into the mountainside, provides an ideal environment for growing cabbage.One of the highlights of visiting Lao Xa Village is the opportunity to interact with the residents and learn about their customs and traditions. We were the only visitors that day and curious village children came close to greet us as we stroll by their house.Tight-knit community bonds are often a hallmark of rural villages, as residents rely on each other for support, cooperation, and social interactions, fostering a strong sense of belonging and identity.In the village, the residents have a culture of sharing resources, like motorbikes. The villagers might lend their vehicles to neighbours in need or participate in informal ride-sharing transportation.
Experience royalty at Hmong King’s Palace
You should not miss this notable historical site known as the Hmong King’s Palace, also called the Hmong Royal Palace or the Vuong Family’s Palace This grand structure is located in Sa Phin Valley, and it holds significant cultural and historical importance for the Hmong people.The palace was constructed in the early 20th century by Vuong Chinh Duc, a powerful and wealthy Hmong leader who was often referred to as the Hmong King. While the title “king” is more of a colloquial term rather than a formal royal designation, Vuong Chinh Duc wielded considerable influence over the Hmong communities in the region.Today, the palace serves as a museum, offering a glimpse into the life and legacy of the Hmong King and his family. It provides insight into Hmong culture, history, and the intricate social structure of the time.
Must-visit Dong Van Weekend Market
The Dong Van Weekend Market, held every Sunday morning in Dong Van town, is a vibrant cultural event where ethnic minorities from the surrounding mountains trade goods, socialise, and celebrate traditions. As a key highlight of the Ha Giang trip, plan your visit around this unique venue.Vendors and shoppers from various nearby villages and remote mountainous areas massed here, creating a bustling atmosphere. It is best to visit early about 7 am as the activities thin out by noon.“Thuốc Lào,” is a type of tobacco commonly used in Vietnam, especially among ethnic minority groups. “Thuốc Lào” is typically smoked using a water pipe known as a “lào”. Water smoking is believed to filter the smoke, making it smoother and less harsh compared to smoking tobacco directly.Fried Bananas (Chuoi Chien) and Fried Sweet Potato Fritters (Khoai Lang Chien) are being prepared for the market visitors. I did not try the snack as I was wary of the food preparation.A toothy grin from a local, signifying dental services might not be on his schedule. You can find various types of homemade sausages on sale. Versions like La Sa, a traditional Hmong sausage made from pork and seasoned with local herbs and spices. Vendors here make Pork Sausage (Gio Lua) from finely ground pork seasoned with fish sauce, sugar, and other flavourings.You can find many products in the market for sale, including fresh produce, handmade crafts, textiles, traditional clothing, livestock, and household items. The crowded venue can get really tight, so it’s highly recommended to bring as few belongings as possible.People in various parts of Vietnam, especially Ha Giang, enjoy smoked pig skin as a traditional delicacy, influenced by the region’s rich culinary heritage and diverse ethnic minorities. A farmer in deep thought as he manned his cattle sales in the livestock area. Farmers consider each matured cow, which can cost USD 2500-3000, as a household asset and a measure of their net worth. A senior vendor selling her items made from dried wild-caught animals like civet cats, squirrels, lizards etc, for use in medicinal remedies.Five-coloured sticky rice, known as “xoi ngu sac” in Vietnamese, for sale as an ingredient used in various savoury dishes or sweet snacks. Vendors use fruits, roots, and leaves of plants to make the colouring.Buckwheat cake baking over open charcoal amber in the market. The tribal vendors make the cake from buckwheat seeds, and it’s popular for its high nutrition and healthy qualities. It costs about 10,000 VND (S$0.60) each.A clothing vendor in deep thoughts. Perhaps thinking about how to clear her goods as quickly as possible in the competitive market with so many vendors selling similar items.
Pit-stop along The Happiness Road
This is a key rest stop along the Ma Pi Leng highway. The Road of Happiness was the symbol of cooperation and efforts by more than 1,300 men and women volunteers from 6 mountainous provinces, connecting the mountainous districts of Ha Giang province to bring happiness to thousands of people living in the region.Local ethnic tribal girls greet travellers having a pit stop at the end of this stretch of the winding road. Buying some sweets or snacks from the rest stop kiosk to give to the children is a nice gesture, although you’re not required to provide them with a small token fee.
Boat ride on the Nho Que River
The Nho Que River, a must-visit destination, features turquoise waters and an imposing mountainscape. Originating in China, it flows through Vietnam’s Dong Van highlands, passing through Dong Van and Meo Vac districts in Ha Giang Province. A boat trip costs around VND 100,000 – 150,000 (S$8.30) per person and lasts about 1 hour.
Quan Ba Ha Giang Twin Mountains
Located in Quan Ba District near the China border, the Quan Ba Twin Mountain is a striking natural wonder. Comprising two nearly identical mountains with breast-like contours, it has earned the nickname “Fairy Breast Mountains” due to Hmong legends.
Colonial era at Dong Van French Fortress
Dong Van French Fortress is a unique historical heritage from the French colonial period. The French Army built the fortress in the late 19th to early 20th century next to the Dong Van Old Town, on the highest limestone peak of the Dong Van district (1,213m), to control the entire regionThe French Fortress, in addition to its historical significance, also serves as an artificial Geosite, built from two types of heritage rocks from the Dong Van UNESCO Global Geopark. Builders used Fusulinid limestone for the fortress walls and roofed all loopholes with cherry-red veined limestone. Additionally, there are 97 Fusulinid limestone steps along the walls leading to the top of the fortress. Visitors from countries where drug bans are enforced will find this plant intriguing. Historically, people cultivated cannabis for linen production, specifically hemp, due to the plant’s fibrous qualities. Authorities control and regulate cannabis cultivation here. We saw plenty of cannabis plants around the fortress vicinity.
Accommodation
Meo Vac Beehive House
Accommodations along the loop are fairly wide, but they mainly consist of budget guesthouses, homestays, and boutique hotels. Searching for options in Agoda may even intrigue some as the rates can be as low as S$4-11/night in bunk bed arrangements. Many of the accommodations also accept only cash payment upon arrival.
Our stay at the Meo Vac Beehive House threw up some pleasant surprises. Meo Vac Beehive House refers to a unique architectural style found in the mountainous region of Meo Vac. The H’mong ethnic minority builds these houses and is known for its distinctive craftsmanship. Upon checking in, we discovered that the lodging had recently undergone renovations, and the room featured modern amenities, including WiFi throughout the village. However, the internet signal strength was erratic and sketchy in our room.The bathroom has sleek furnishing like a modern bathtub, digital water heater and backlit mirror. The lodge prioritised the hot water supply for the standing shower rather than the bathtub. Despite this, it was still the best accommodation we stayed at along the LoopWe had the best Com Lau (hot pot) at the local diner called Men Say Quán, just a short 4-min walk from our room. To ensure the cook can prepare it properly, do pre-order the dish in advance.
Misty Valley Ngoc Cuong(Yen Minh)
Our stay atMisty Valley Ngoc Cuong in Yen Minh was particularly pleasant, as it was the best and newest lodging in the area. However, we encountered some challenges during check-in, as the lodge’s manager didn’t speak English. Thankfully, after some clarification, we were able to resolve the issues. The lodge’s breakfast of banh mi with an egg omelette and cucumber was a terrible start to the day.The room featured modern amenities like an internet-linked TV and comfortable beds. The mirror in the bathroom had back-lighting. A fabulous lodging in a laid-back quiet remote town.The modern bathroom and amenities meant our stay was as comfortable as home. During my previous trip to Ha Giang, we had quite a “nightmarish” stay at an exotic homestay, which, as a result, made me more cautious when it came to booking accommodation along the Loop.
Conclusion
Is Ha Giang worth the risk and danger? A definite YES! It’s perfect for adventure seekers looking to explore off the beaten path. The Ha Giang Loop offers an unforgettable journey through Vietnam’s stunning, untouched landscapes, providing a unique glimpse into rural life and natural beauty. I hope my Ha Giang Loop by Private Car Tour article helped with your planning. Thanks for joining me on my journey. For more travel inspiration, check out my other articles here. This travelogue contains images copyrighted byJensen Chua Photography, with all rights reserved. The opinions expressed are factual, objective, and the author’s own.
