Welcome to “Eat like a local in Saigon”. This is my fifth trip in a year to the vibrant Ho Chi Minh City, where every street corner offers a feast of flavours. As you step into this bustling metropolis, you’re not just embarking on a culinary adventure—you’re diving into a rich tapestry of tastes, traditions, and tantalising street food. You’ll be pleased to know that Saigon was awarded 4th place in TimeOut’s Best Cities for Food 2024. The local cuisine is a harmonious blend of sweet, sour, salty, and spicy elements, with each dish reflecting the city’s dynamic history and cultural influences. Renowned food vloggers and my local Vietnamese friends inspired the featured food and eateries for this trip.
Pho (Noodle Soup)
No Vietnamese food article is complete without mentioning Pho. This is a traditional Vietnamese soup consisting of broth, rice noodles, herbs, and either beef or chicken. Originating in northern Vietnam in the early 20th century, pho has become famous worldwide. The rich, aromatic broth is typically simmered for hours with spices like star anise, cinnamon, and ginger, giving it a distinctive flavour. Pho is often garnished with fresh herbs, bean sprouts, lime, and chili, allowing for a customisable and flavourful experience. It’s commonly enjoyed as a breakfast dish in Vietnam, though it’s loved throughout the day by people everywhere.
The Pho bo (beef) at Pho Vietnam are served separately with a piping hot iron pot for mixing the hand-cut noodles, beef and vegetables. The hygienic food preparation area and clean ambience make this eatery a safe choice for tourists and locals alike.The freshly prepared flat noodles are hand cut at the food preparation area with see-through glass. Only this outlet at 66 Tran Quoc Toan, Ward 8, District 3 can you see the cooks preparing the meals. This franchise currently has three outlets around Ho Chi Minh City. Service is brisk and staff are friendly and efficient. The sets starts from 60,000 VND – 100,000 VND (S$3.50-5.50) .
Bun Rieu(Crab Rice Noodle Soup)
Bún riêu is an enigmatic dish with a wide range of ingredients. My favourite part is the soup, which carries a sophisticated combination of flavours that comfortably tease your taste buds. Although there is a wide variety of toppings, the tomato and crab pastes take centre stage in the bún riêu bowl. Each serving costs 60,000 VND (S$3.20).The broth’s signature orangy-red colour comes from various ingredients like tomatoes, shrimp paste, and fish sauce. The ingredients are an unusual combination, but out of the complexity, comes the deliciousness that can be addictive.Bun Rieu is a popular crab rice noodle soup and it is one of the most must-eats in Ho Chi Minh City.This four-decade eatery is located at 163 Đ. Lê Thánh Tôn, Phường Bến Thành, Quận 1. We arrived slightly early just before the regular crowd and managed to secure a table behind the diner’s food handler to observe how she tended to the pot of deliciousness.A side dish of julienned banana tree flower, mint, and perilla leaves accompany the dish.Mam tom or shrimp paste, complements the dish perfectly. This is a staple of Vietnamese dishes. The best shrimp paste will be a violet thick paste with a pungent smell which may put off newbies.Bun Rieu Ganh is located just beside Ben Thanh Market, thus you can expect many foreign tourists at the diner. There English “how to eat your bun rieu’ on the diner’s wall.
Bun Bo Hue (Hue Beef Noodle)
Bún Bò Huế, or Huế beef noodle soup, originates from the ancient capital of Huế in central Vietnam. Known for its rich, bold flavors, it has earned love across all regions of Vietnam—North, Central, and South—and some even consider it better than Phở.Hue cake (Bánh Huế) refers to a variety of cakes that share common base ingredients of rice flour and shrimp. However, the unique recipes and the skills of the people of Huế give each cake its distinctive taste.Dong Ba is highly rated for Bun Bo Hue. The family-run have been serving the 100-year old traditional dish in Ho Chi Minh City for the last 25 years. The eatery opens daily 6.00 AM to 11.00PM.
Com Tam (Broken Rice Dish)
One of the most common meals throughout Saigon, you’ll see Com Tam being served at numerous little restaurants and street food stalls around the city. The shop’s signature item is the”Grand Slam”, a mixed version at 150,000VND (S$7.95) that can feed 2 person. You can smell the aroma of the sizzling pork even before reaching the location. The pork chop at Com Tam Ba Ghien is salty and sweet and has an aromatic smoky flavour to it.The shop has 2 staff constantly grilling the huge tub of marinated pork chops.Located at 84 Đ. Đặng Văn Ngữ Phường 10, Phú Nhuận (Ward 10), which would take a 28 min Grab ride from District 1. One key point – no one else in Saigon does it as grand and glorious as Com Tam Ba Ghien. Michelin-rated 2 years in a row since 2023, you will know they mean business.Serving what many locals considered to be the best cơm tấm (broken rice dish) in town, this shop was established in 1995.
Banh Mi (short baguette with thin, crisp crust)
Banh Mi is like the everyday bread of Vietnam cuisine. But uniqueness here can be rare and hard to find in Saigon. Mdm. Huong’s Banh Mi cart has been in business for over 40 years. Her mother passed it down to her, and the fabulous family-made sauce is the soul of the shop’s bread, complemented by cartilage and pickled cabbage.Mdm Huong tending to her meats. She is located at – 118B Nguyen Than Hien, District 4. Her banh mi is about 35,000 VND (S$1.85) per serving and her banh mi size is larger than most street-side banh mi stalls.Before you reach her stall, you can smell the BBQ aroma in the air. Certainly smart business strategy of Mdm Huong to site her grille right in front of the stall.One bite of her beef ribs will show you that they are perfectly marinated and evenly grilled. The cartilage is tender, juicy and not tough at all. Paired with her homemade secret sauce and preserved vegetables, the taste is divine. Distinctly better and different from all other banh mi I have eaten so far in Saigon.As we waited for our order, a constant stream of clients on bikes lined up to pick up their orders. Madam Huong opens daily from 3 pm – 11 pm, so don’t go early for breakfast or lunch.
Bò Né(Sizzling Beef on hot plate)
Bò Né is a popular breakfast dish but it is available at some diners any time of day. Bò means cow and Né means to dodge. This dish translates to “dodging beef,” as you try to avoid the hot splatter of butter from the sizzling cast-iron pan when it is brought to your table.The eatery chef cooking up a fire with a flaming hot cast-iron pan in the shape of a cow. The version – beef, pate and egg (plus a fresh crispy baguette) is the one you should go for (55,000 VND /about S$3.00). The diner sells a version that includes sardines, which I did not try.The taste and texture of the beef and pate nicely paired with a soft-yolk omelette is nothing I have ever tasted before. The accompanying soya sauce added with a bit of sliced chilli and balsamic vinegar takes it to another level. You will be totally satisfied. Bò Né Thanh Tuyền @ 20/6-7 Nguyễn Trường Tộ, Phường 12, Quận 4. It’s considered the top Bo Ne eatery in HCMC. Do take note they are open daily ONLY 6 am – 11 am.
Món cua (Crab dishes)
We ordered the soft-shelled crab, and it was so good that one serving wasn’t enough. Fried to order, it boasts a crispy crust and firm flesh with natural sweetness. You can also replace it with shrimp in most dishes. This restaurant specializes in crab, and we visited specifically for the deep-fried soft-shelled crab. We were delighted by the dish, it was so delicious that I’d fly back to Saigon just to eat it again.The crab spring roll is another winner that will have you coming back for more.The crab meat vermicelli soup delights with its umami-loaded crabmeat and roe. The broth features deep and slightly sweet flavours.The restaurant neatly display loads of freshly delivered crabs, ready for your dining pleasure.Quan Thuy 94 Miến Cua -you will love the menu of crab spring rolls, fried rice, salt-baked crab, steamed crab, and the list goes on. Located at 84 Dinh Tien Hoang Street, Da Kao Ward, District 1. The diner doesn’t accept reservations and the payment terms are cash only. Do be aware of another eatery just a few shops away “Quan 94” selling similar items but not as good.
Cha Ca La Vong (Grilled Fish dish)
Chả Cá Lã Vọng which is a grilled fish dish, originally from Hanoi. Cha ca means “grilled fish”. La Vong, on the other hand, was inspired by the statue of a fisherman. The Vietnamese pronunciation for Lu Wang is also a popular Chinese prime minister of the Zhou Dynasty in the 1030 BC – 223 BC. Moreover, La Vong is a symbol of talented people who “know how to wait for the right time to shine.” giving the restaurant’s name Cha Ca La Vong.They prepare the fish carefully and cook it slowly. The main ingredient is a type of catfish called hemibagrus. They cut the fish into small pieces after removing the bones, then marinate it for 2 hours with saffron, ginger flower, galingale, fish sauce, and a little pepper. They charcoal grill the fish when the pieces turn yellow from the saffron.They serve the fish at the table and fry it in a small pan with dill and spring onion before you eat it with fresh rice noodles called bun, fried nuts, basil, and shrimp sauce, or fish sauce and lime for those who find shrimp sauce a bit heavy.Our waiter prepared our order, adding the dill and spring onions to the pan after heating the fish.This diner is located at – 7 Hồ Xuân Hương, Phường 6, Quận 3. Cha Ca La Vong Restaurant has its history way back in the 19th century when the French conquered Vietnam. On an ordinary day, a Doan family generously treated their friends with homemade marinated grilled fish with herbs. The friends loved the food so much that they encouraged and helped the family put up a restaurant to share their delicious creations and make a living. Thus, the Cha Ca Restaurant was born.
Bun Cha(Grilled Pork and Noodles Dish)
I had a disappointing experience in Singapore looking for a good bun cha before this Saigon food trip. I missed the delicious bun cha in Hanoi, so I hope to find a comparable good one in HCMC and I found it in Quán Ngon – Bún Chả Hà Nội. Although lacking the “streetside happiness” of eating at Hanoi bun cha eateries, this is as close as it gets, taste-wise.The nicely marinated juicy pork patties will endear themselves to anyone new to bun cha. This joint will certainly be on my revisit list when I visit HCMC again in the future.The eatery feels somewhat cramped, with the dining area on the upper floors. Watch out for the high kerb at the entrance to avoid tripping. The hygienic food preparation area will reassure you.The marinated minced pork patties sizzle in the kitchen, whetting our appetite when we enter the diner.The restaurant facade along the busy streets at 209 Đ. Đề Thám, Phường Phạm Ngũ Lão, Quận 1.
Xoi Man (Salty Sticky Rice)
Xôi mặn is a classic Vietnamese dish that consists of sticky rice served with a variety of toppings. Xôi means “sticky rice,” and mặn means “salty”.You will love the soft savoury sticky rice, wrapped in banana leaf with Chinese sausage (lap cheong), scallion oil, crispy fried shallots, roasted peanuts, and meat floss, all freshly prepared daily by Minh. Each portion is priced at 20,000 VND (S$1.06) for the small portion and 30,000 VND (S$1.60) for the large portion. You’ll love the Xôi Mặn 409 sticky rice, which has a comforting fragrance as it’s wrapped in a banana leaf.Luu Bao Minh, the son of the founder, revealed that loyal customers coined the name “morgue sticky rice.” Previously, Minh’s parents operated a sticky rice cart at the intersection of Nguyen Tri Phuong and Tran Phu Streets. Over time, their family relocated to the current location on Tran Phu Street. “Morgue” sticky rice is a culinary landmark of HCMC’s Chinatown. Located on Tran Phu Street in District 5, Xôi Mặn (Savory Sticky Rice) 409 shop has become a local household name, with intriguing tales surrounding its name, including the spooky, yet most used one — ‘morgue sticky rice.’
Bep Me In (Michelin-rated Vietnamese food restaurant)
While not a street food joint, Bep Me In food is so good that it warrants a special mention here. This is a Michelin-rated diner offering Vietnamese family-style food, with street food specialities, classic dishes, and some modern interpretation.The eatery sits nestled in an alley steeped in history and culture, just steps from the famous Ben Thanh Market. The entrance is somewhat hidden from the main road. Any locals can likely direct you to Bep Me In, for the superb dining experience. You will find many classic foods which Vietnamese mother makes for their family, bringing a feeling of comfort and childhood memories, simple but unforgettable.My favourite dish of the evening is the beef skewers with vermicelli (239,000 VND / S$12.70). Soft, juicy, beautifully marinated and easily off the stick. If I had two stomachs, I would have ordered a 2nd serving.The fried tofu patties with eggs and sesame seeds (119,000 VND / S$ 6.30) are another delightful dish. The superbly fragrant sesame sauce perfectly complements the crispy egg skin batter, sprinkled with sesame seeds. I wish they would reveal the recipe.”The steamed mixed vegetables dish was simply another comfort dish. ( 89,000 VND / S$ 4.75) spot on and paired with a caramelised dipping sauce. Vegan’s and any human being’s heaven!Shrimp fried rice in coconut (149,000 VND / S$ 7.90). Words can’t describe this dish. Fragrant, and nicely balanced with subtle wok hei that will make you fall in love in with fried rice all over again.
Dabao Concept – Retro theme cafe
Coffee culture in Vietnam is booming. You can find a café practically everywhere you look. It’s so strong that even Starbucks has struggled to make a significant impact in the caffeine market. However, my focus is on the hidden gems in Ho Chi Minh City, like this charming retro café —Dabao Concept, located at 18 Tú Xương, Phường Võ Thị Sáu, Quận 3. The designer has created a space filled with natural light, wooden roof tiles, a retro theme, and a color scheme of only browns and whites, both indoors and outdoors.”The café offers some excellent food and beverage options. Of course, the prices here are higher than at most places, but you’re paying for the ‘inner peace’ and Instagram-worthy angles.For the shutterbugs, this place is bang for the pixels.The cafe ID exudes a calming feel that makes you feel relaxed, away from the frenetic pace of HCMC.The cafe has another branch: Dabao Concept – Heritage, located at 37 Dinh Cong Trang, Tan Dinh Ward, District 1. Similar vibes at a convenient location if you are in District 1.
Chè – Sweet desserts
I can’t end this article without touching on Chè, this is a broad term for a variety of sweet soups or puddings. You can have chè with beans, fruits, or seeds, and often served cold. These desserts reflect Vietnam’s emphasis on fresh, natural flavours and their love for balancing sweetness with other tastes.My favourite Chè shop has to be Chè Khánh Vylocated at 32 lô H, Ng Gia Tự, Phường 2, Quận 10. It’s a popular spot for locals and tourists alike who are looking to enjoy a variety of chè. This famous sweet soup stall is in its 3rd generation. This is a perfect place to try various types of che all at one location. Their signature menu item features a huge tray of 16 different kinds of chè. One order is enough to satisfy a family of 4 or even 6. You can also order small bowls at the price of only 8,000 VND (S$0.45) each.Another good che sidewalk stall isMs Diep Che Dessert located at 241 Võ Văn Tần, Phường 5, Quận 3. You can see Ms. Diep’s dessert shop is very popular with Saigon people because, from the time it opens until it closes, it has an endless stream of customers, even though the shop is on the sidewalk and only opens from 5 pm to 10.30 pm. The shop has 2 types of hot and cold sweet soup that you should try.
Conclusion
As we slurp up our culinary journey through the vibrant streets of Saigon, it’s clear that this city is a feast for the senses. From the bustling markets to the charming street vendors serving bowls of pho and banh mi, Saigon’s food landscape is a multi-layer of flavours, traditions, and innovation. Whether you’re a seasoned foodie or a curious traveller, Saigon’s diverse cuisine promises an unforgettable experience. So, until your next adventure, stay safe and enjoy your dining journey. Bon appétit and chúc ngon miệng! Do check out my other Vietnam travel adventures here. Jensen Chua Photography holds all the rights to the pictures used in the article. The opinion expressed is factual, objective, and that of the author.
